While everyone is fighting over skincare and makeup in China, one market is exploding in the shadows. Silently. Massively. And almost nobody in Western boardrooms has figured out what’s happening yet.
Chinese haircare.
I’ve been seeing it for 18 months in my clients’ data, in conversations with distributors, in the Xiaohongshu trends I obsessively track. The Chinese haircare market is going through exactly the same revolution that skincare went through ten years ago. And those who stake their position now will be harvesting the rewards for the next decade.
Let me explain why. And more importantly, how.
By Olivier Verot, Founder of GMA – Gentlemen Marketing Agency
The Numbers That Don’t Lie….
The Chinese haircare market is worth $26 billion USD today. It’s projected to reach $38 billion USD by 2028, according to Euromonitor. That’s annual growth of 7.8% in an otherwise challenging economic environment.
But those headline numbers don’t tell the real story. Let’s look at the detail….;-)
The premium and masstige segment (products priced between 100 and 500 RMB) is growing at 23% per year. That’s three times faster than the overall market. The ultra-premium segment (>500 RMB per product) is growing at 34% per year, from a small base but with a spectacular trajectory.
Meanwhile, the premium skincare market is stagnating. Even declining in certain categories.
Why the divergence? ๐
Because Chinese consumers have already optimized their skincare routines. They have their products. They have their brands. They’re loyal. But their haircare routine? Still basic. Shampoo plus conditioner, usually from a generic household name, bought out of habit, without real conviction.
That’s exactly where Chinese skincare was in 2012-2013. Right before the explosion.
Understanding Why Haircare Is Booming Right Now
This is not an accident. It’s the convergence of four simultaneous factors I’m watching on the ground.
Factor 1: The “Skinification” of Haircare
Let me explain ๐
Chinese consumers are now hyper-educated on skincare after a decade of intensive beauty content, are now applying the same analytical logic to their hair….
They are not just looking for a shampoo that cleans anymore.
They want actives… Results… Science.
On Red, you have so many posts discussing haircare ingredients hair peptides, amino acids, biofermented keratin, camellia oil , at Gma we saw their engagement explode. Data have shower +340% in 2024 engagement for Haircare (source iimedia)
Female Users talk, chat … about active concentrations the way they debated “niacinamide” or “retinol” 5years ago.
I have a client, a brand manager for a Cosmetics Brand company, who called me last December: “Olivier, our Chinese customers are asking me questions about our haircare formulas that even our labs back in France can’t answer. They know more than we do.”
That is the level of consumer sophistication you need to be ready for.
Factor 2: The Post-COVID Hair Loss Crisis
Something few Western analyses mention: the massive wave of post-COVID hair loss in China created explosive demand for functional haircare products.
Chinese medical studies published in 2022-2023 estimated that between 22% and 30% of people who contracted COVID in China experienced hair loss symptoms in the 3 to 6 months following infection. With 1.4 billion people and massive infection waves in 2022, we’re talking about tens of millions of people affected.
The result? An explosion of demand for everything related to hair density, regrowth, and scalp health. Keywords like “็ๅ” (hair growth), “้ฒ่ฑ” (anti-hairloss), and “ๅคด็ฎๆค็” (scalp care) saw their search volumes on Tmall and Baidu multiply by 2.8x between 2021 and 2024.
Brands I would never have imagined performing in China are crushing it in this space. Japanese pharmaceutical brands specialized in trichology. Korean brands with formulas based on traditional Asian ingredients like ginger, red ginseng, and houttuynia cordata. European brands betting on medical-grade scalp cosmetics.
Factor 3: The Scalp Care Influence
In Korea, “scalp care” โ treating the scalp as an extension of facial skincare โ has been mainstream since 2020. In China, this trend arrived in 2023 and it is completely transforming the market.
The scalp is becoming the new face. Scalp serums, hair massage oils, scalp exfoliants, clay-based scalp masks… Categories that barely existed in China three years ago now represent 2.3 billion RMB in annual GMV on Tmall alone.
And the growth curve is nearly vertical: +187% in 2024 for the “scalp care” category on Tmall. This isn’t a trend. This is a category revolution.
Factor 4: The Guochao Haircare Movement
The nationalist consumption wave (guochao) I talked about in my luxury article is hitting haircare too. And here it takes a particularly interesting form.
Chinese haircare brands rooted in Traditional Chinese Medicine (TCM) are experiencing spectacular growth. Spes (shampoos and styling products), Hairman, Manyoung Beauty (TCM ingredients)… These brands and localized adaptations are responding to a specific demand: consumers who want the sophistication of premium Western haircare, but with cultural references and ingredients that resonate with them.
This is a nuanced challenge for Western brands. But not a threat if you’re smart about your positioning.
Portrait of the New Chinese Haircare Consumer
Before we talk strategy, you need to understand who you’re talking to. And this consumer is probably not who you’re imagining.
The urban woman aged 25-35 in tier 1 and 2 cities is your early adopter. She already has a 7-10 step skincare routine. She spends 2,000-5,000 RMB per month on beauty. She’s on Xiaohongshu every single day. She trusts KOCs (Key Opinion Consumers) more than celebrities. She wants science, not marketing. And she’s ready to pay 300-800 RMB for a shampoo if you can prove it’s worth it.
The urban man aged 25-40 is the most underestimated segment. Male hair loss is an ultra-sensitive topic in China โ the term “่ฑๅ็ฆ่” (hair loss anxiety) has become a full-blown cultural meme. But that anxiety translates into real spending. A Chinese man concerned about hair loss spends on average 1,800 RMB per month on haircare products. More than the average woman spends on skincare.
The woman aged 45-60 in tier 2-3 cities is the fastest-growing segment. She has money โ her generation benefited directly from 30 years of economic growth. She’s starting to develop age-related hair concerns (grey hair, loss of density, dry scalp). And she’s not yet saturated by brand messaging.
Platforms: Where the Real Battle Is Being Fought
This is where I need to be precise, because I see too many brands copy-pasting their skincare platform strategy onto haircare. That’s a mistake.
Xiaohongshu: The Engine of Haircare Discovery
If skincare historically played out on Weibo and then Xiaohongshu, haircare is playing out primarily on Xiaohongshu from day one.
Why? Because haircare is a long-term purchase decision. The consumer won’t commit after seeing one ad. They’re going to research, compare, read reviews, watch “hair journey” content for several weeks before buying.
Xiaohongshu is built perfectly for this type of purchase journey. Before-and-after haircare content generates monster engagement. An honest post from a real user documenting her three-month progress with a product can easily hit 500,000 views and 50,000 saves.
Concrete strategy: Invest in specialist haircare KOCs. Not mega beauty influencers who cover everything. Accounts with 30,000-150,000 followers, entirely dedicated to haircare, with hyper-engaged audiences. The cost of a sponsored post: 5,000-25,000 RMB. The ROI compared to a KOL with 2 million followers: 3 to 5 times better.
Publish educational content continuously. Ingredient tutorials, formula comparisons, step-by-step haircare routines. Minimum target: 4 posts per week on your official Xiaohongshu account. Never let your page sit dormant for more than 3 days.
Douyin: The Platform for High-Virality Products
Haircare performs well on Douyin, but not across all categories. Products with immediate visual results are perfect for Douyin: ultra-nourishing hair masks, anti-frizz serums, styling products, heat protectors.
A product that shows a visible transformation in 60 seconds of video can generate explosive sales overnight.
The format that works: “Testing” videos. testimonials hehe. A real (or paid ๐ ) femal user applies the product on camera, shows the application, captures the immediate result, and reacts authentically. No over-scripted delivery… No studio lighting. See the Raw authenticity convert MUch better than polished advertising….our feeback
What doesn’t work on Douyin for haircare: Products with progressive results (anti-hairloss treatments, regrowth serums). Douyin consumers want immediate payoff. For those products, stay on Xiaohongshu and WeChat where longer consumer education is possible.
Read more
WeChat: Your Real Wealth Is Retention
I say this in every article because it’s fundamental: your WeChat official account and mini-program are your most valuable assets.
In haircare specifically, WeChat is critical for one key reason: the purchase cycle is long. A haircare treatment lasts 3-6 months. The consumer will have questions along the way. They’ll have doubts. They might be using the product incorrectly.
If you’re not there to accompany them through WeChat, you’ll lose the customer before they’ve seen results. And you’ll end up with bad reviews.
What your haircare mini-program needs to include:
- An interactive “hair diagnostic” (hair type, concerns, objectives) that recommends the right products
- A personalized routine tracker with reminders
- Exclusive educational content for members
- Responsive customer service via chat (under 2 hours response time)
- A loyalty program with points and rewards
A Korean haircare brand we work with implemented this type of mini-program in January 2024. Results 12 months later: 67% repurchase rate (vs. 23% industry average on Tmall), average basket up 45%, NPS of 78.
The Categories to Target First in china
Not all haircare categories are equal in China. Here’s my personal “breakdown” of opportunities by segment….
Add if you know more
๐ฅ Scalp Care: The Gold Category
This is THE segment to capture right now. Competition is still limited, demand is exploding, and margins are excellent , Chinese girls will pay premium prices for “medico-cosmetic” positioning.
Key targets: scalp serums, scalp massage oils, scalp exfoliants, “clinical” shampoos (even without a prescription, the clinical angle builds trust).
Pricing sweet spot: 180-450 RMB for a serum or oil. 280-600 RMB for a premium scalp care shampoo.
๐ฅ Anti-Hairloss and Density: The Anxiety That Generates Sales
Source China daily… As I explained above, demand is massive and durable. But warning: this segment demands proof. Clinical studies. Real before-and-afters. Verifiable testimonials….
Don’t launch an anti-hairloss product without a solid evidence base. Chinese consumers in this segment are particularly rigorous about verifying claims. One viral post calling out exaggerated results can destroy a brand’s credibility overnight.
Specific opportunity: The male anti-hairloss premium segment is massively underserved by international brands. If you have an effective formula with real proof points, you can own this space.
๐ฑ Natural and Clean Beauty Haircare: The Underlying Trend
Demand for silicone-free, sulfate-free, and paraben-free formulas is growing strongly, particularly among the 25-35 year old female consumers already converted to clean skincare.
Important nuance: “Clean beauty” in China doesn’t carry the same codes as in Europe. You need to be both “clean” (free from controversial ingredients) AND deliver visible results. Chinese consumers will not compromise on performance for ethical reasons. They want both. Clean Beauty Market in China: A Growing Trend Driven by Millennials and Gen Z
๐ Premium Styling Products: The Neglected Segment
Styling products โ styling creams, gloss oils, heat protectors, fixing sprays โ are massively underdeveloped in the premium space in China. The market is dominated by mass-market brands and professional salon lines.
The opportunity for a premium lifestyle brand with innovative formulas and premium packaging is very real. The consumer is ready. The distributor channel is ready. What’s missing is the right product.
Your Brand Market Entry Roadmap
Here’s how I would approach a haircare launch in China in 2025. Concretely, not theoretically…
Months 1-2: Validation and Positioning ๐
Before spending a single yuan on marketing, do your homework…. I like to Analyze the top 200 Xiaohongshu posts in your target categories. The I Identify the real consumer pain points. Verify that your product claims comply with NMPA (National Medical Products Administration) regulations โ this is a critical point that brands consistently overlook and it can stop a launch cold.
Budget: 20,000 40,000 RMB for serious market research and a regulatory audit.
Months 3-4: Seeding and Building Social Proof , Chinese girls love that
Send your products to 50-100 carefully selected haircare KOCs on Xiaohongshu. No obligation to post, no imposed script…. Just ask for honest feedback and let them post if they genuinely love it.
Yes, some won’t post anything. But the ones who post spontaneously are infinitely more credible than those who post because they’re being paid. And credibility in haircare, where results take time, is everything.
Budget: 80,000-120,000 RMB (product + KOC relationship management)
Months 5-6: Platform Launch in China, Ecommerce.
Open your official Xiaohongshu account. Launch your WeChat mini-program. Start with a JD.com store (lower barrier to entry than Tmall for new brands, and excellent traction for haircare). Launch your first Douyin campaigns if you have products with strong visual potential.
Budget: 200,000-350,000 RMB (platform setup + marketing + initial inventory)
Months 7-12: Optimization and Scale : ROI time
Analyze your data, identify the products that perform, double down on them. Build your WeChat follower base. Strengthen your Xiaohongshu presence with consistent content and ongoing KOC partnerships.
This is the stage where you decide if Tmall is worth the investment โ based on volume and margins already proven across other channels. Not before.
Build great things take Time in China
The Opportunity Won’t Stay Open
Just Do IT ๐
in China dont overthink… just GO. yes the latecomers never understand: emerging markets have a window of opportunity. And that window closes and BYE BYE
In 2013, you could have a decent skincare product and a Weibo account and generate serious volume in China. In 2025, you need a minimum ten million dollar budget, a local team, two years of brand building, and even that’s not guaranteed.
Haircare is in 2026 where skincare was in 2015. Not yet saturated. Not yet dominated by the big groups. With consumers hungry for education and ready to adopt new brands.
But Unilever knows this. L’Orรฉal knows this. P&G knows this. The major Korean conglomerates know this. They are already repositioning their brands, acquiring small local players, investing heavily in R&D for China-specific formulas.
- You probably have 18 to 24 months before the window starts closing in earnest.
- The question isn’t “is Chinese haircare an opportunity?”
- The question is: “Are you going to act now, or spend the next three years regretting that you didn’t?”
Olivier Verot is the founder of Gentlemen Marketing Agency (GMA), a specialist beauty and premium brands agency in digital marketing and e-commerce in China. We are located in Shanghai since 2009, he helps international brands build and scale in the Chinese market.
Do you have a haircare brand and you’re looking at China?
Contact US . We have the data, the contacts, and the experience to help you avoid the costly mistakes.